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Real sword type56-2

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#1 Speed Torque

Speed Torque

    NVA - Unteroffizier

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 12:45 AM

This is not an objective review as I am not experienced enough in airsoft to do so, but I can offer my initial impressions of my new purchase.

The first thing I did was rip it out of the box, no photos or anything like that, and held it. I played with the folding but stock, loaded a magazine of zero rounds, pretended to make ready and squeezed the trigger a few times. I was really happy at this point, I have waited a while for this gun. After playing a little more, trying to work out a reasonably smart drill at arms procedure,. I was really enjoying holding this inert weapon, the noises it made were right, not as good as cocking an early deactivated or  real one, but better than a late de-ac or a wooden mock up. It smelt right too, this thing was covered in gun oil, my hands felt like they did on my last annual personal weapon test.

But now we get to the part that everyone will moan about: It looks like a bag of cr@p, the metal is stamped in a rough manner, ugly spot welds with splatter everywhere, no consistent texture on any of the plastic furniture. This is what the You Tube reviews don’t show, a dirt cheap weapon system that has no vanity. I love it!

After this initial inspection I took it down to my local airsoft shop for the guys to have a look. They had already stated that they had no interest in supplying anything by Real Sword as the market indication shows people want cheap throwaway guns and a new one every so often. They labelled me as a minority for being an enthusiast because I wanted heavy real steel and robust build quality (a trade mark of the AK, surely?). The guys were impressed, we had all seen and held deactivated Chinese type 56s and this could have been just another one of them. We popped a battery on and chrono’d it at 410fps +- 5, that’s a bit hot for the UK! The action sounded clean and the rate of fire was normal for an unmodified gun.

Upon taking it home, I began to inspect the weapon further. To be honest I found a few problems and I’ll discuss those now. I had bought a 6 pack of China Army 150rnd mid caps, they’re good value and I like mid caps for the balance or realism and playability (and the lack of rattling). They didn’t fit, which upset me. But I found out why. The magazine release catch engages with a lip that protrudes from the rear of the magazine. On the original mag, this is a folded piece of metal spot welded into place. On the CA mags this was a plastic wedge that was about 1.5mm thicker than the original, I filed it down until it made the right “click” on insertion and used that as a guide for filing the rest. They all work fine now and I hope that information will help others that have the same problem. Rather than the other suggestions that I have read, such as only using the manufacturer’s mags. The next problem I had was the safety catch not locking the trigger when the gun was rotated on its right hand side. A full strip down was required to investigate this. The strip down was aided by a full colour poster with good English and what I can only assume to be good Chinese instructions. This revealed an impressive amount of real steel and very robust build quality. Also, a really smart looking, well engineered gearbox. It really looks out of place amongst the rough metal and cheap plastic. The problem is the trigger lock mechanism is on the outside of the gear box, but there is nothing to press the trigger lock against the side of the gear box, thus allowing the sear to fall away from behind the trigger with gravity. My proposed solution is to place a wave washer over the selector shaft between the mechanism and the side of the body (the receiver). This should apply enough pressure to the keep mechanism pressed flat to the side of the gear box whilst not causing too much abrasion. An alternative would be to use shims, but I would use copper or something as to reduce abrasion. It is worth noting that when in “safe” mode the power is disconnected anyway, so the trigger lock isn’t totally necessary.

I intend to modify the gun for my own use with a 90-100mps spring, 2 cell lipo, lipo alarm and a non-braked mosfet. Also, I would like to fit some kind of tactical for-grip system, I think this can use a real AK for-grip, but I need to confirm that before I invest in some parts.

To conclude, I have bought the right weapon for me. The iconic AK shape remains, allowing me to play any bad guy. The gun will survive more drops bumps and falls than I will and the mechanics seem to be solid (did I mention the full ball bearing gearbox?). But, it is not pretty and it didn’t fully work out of the box. Like a cheap gun from China, but it wasn’t cheap. If you like the sound of this gun, I couldn’t recommend it more. If you want a gun that works out of the box, buy a Tokyo Marui.

A few additional points, the finish on the gun is genuine blueing, I dont know how that process occurs, but it's a finish that the real gun uses and it wares like a real gun. For me that important, my wife's star sa80 looks less like the real steel with every new scratch.

I'll keep you posted on the modifications.


 - John M


Real Sword Type 56-2.
55 gallon drum of whoopass (for when a can just isn't enough)

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